Gyproc Plasterboard Patches various sizes 12 Pack (2 x 50mm, 5 x 100mm & 5 x 150mm))

Product Information

You may be doing the same, or you may just be skimming over little bits, leaving most of your existing plaster exposed. Either way, I have covered how to skim coat in another post. Here's a link to it which will open in a new tab for you. Using plasterboard to fill a hole between plaster can be advantageous to using a base plaster/render (the stuff beneath the thin layer of finishing skim coats), for a number of reasons: For me, when I was sorting out both bedrooms, I skim the lot, over the old plaster too. This is because I wanted to make sure I had a flat surface throughout and I'd already had a bit of practice at skim coating. With mine, I troweled off my bonding coat so that it was flush with the surrounding (good) plaster. This was because I was completely skimming over that wall, so the finished level will be a couple of millimeters above the existing good plaster. Both, lath-and-plaster and plasterboard ceilings are fixed to the joists that support the floor above. The depth of the joists will vary depending on the age of the building (older ones are often deeper than modern ones) and their length. Lath and plaster

Most modern ceilings are built from sheets of plasterboard nailed to the joists. These joints are taped with scrim - a very open-weave, self-adhesive tape. Wet plaster is then added, or the ceiling is finished with jointing tape and compound - which seals the joints and creates a surface ready for decorating. The floor of the room above a plasterboard ceiling may well be laid with floorboards or chipboard. Suspended ceilings Give the masonry a good clean out with a brush and a vacuum cleaner, Remember to get the edges of the old plaster too, that'll be quite dusty and dust is not our friend. With Bonding Coat, it contains really large particles. It's no good for a finishing skim, it's just too rough. It does however provide a really good key for a finishing skim coat. Therefore, don't worry too much about getting it smooth, just concentrate on getting the levels right i.e. it shouldn't poke out too far and there shouldn't be a dip.

Repair small holes in plasterboard

Roller - including the handle, obviously! Like the brush, we're using it to apply a PVA/water solution, so we're going for coverage, not quality, so just get a cheap one for this. Although, a short pile would avoid a lot of mess. Some plaster products shouldn’t be applied to a depth of more the 12mm in one go. If this is the case, you may need to make two or more applications For both options, once the bonding coat has dried it's time to apply the finishing skim. This can be applied over the bonding coat, the existing plaster and the plasterboard. Now draw two lines across the gap to create a rectangle around the hole. Cut out the existing plasterboard with a sharp Stanley knife or use a small jab saw. Add as much filler as you need to until the hole is filled flush with the surface of the wall. Use the trowel to get the surface as flat as possible.

This method is very similar to fixing holes in plasterboard on walls. If it’s a small screw hole or nail hole just use a putty knife and a suitable filler, and smooth out. Rub down when finished. If you're not confident with plastering large areas, plasterboard will achieve a flat surface with which to skim over. Another way to fill a hole in plasterboard is to enlarge the hole first to make a square of a suitable size. Then cut two battens (19 x 38mm timber will suffice) and make sure they are 100mm longer than the size of the square you have cut. Top tip: Apply the layers in different directions each time in sweeping motions and use the magic (ok, it’s not magic, but it is brilliant!) squeegee to get the smoothest finish.When working with plaster, it's best to only work with small amounts on the hawk and trowel. Try to build up a rhythm so you can cover the patch repair before the plaster starts to set Depending on the shape of the hole, whether its circular or has jagged edges you may need to use a padsaw, jabsaw or hobby knife. Be careful using any of these items as they are sharp and can slip quite easily. Locate the joists each side of the hole with a stud detector. Next draw a line along each joist, half-way across its width, with a straightedge and pencil. Then join them up to mark a square or rectangle around the damaged area. Step 1

Very briefly, whilst I'm on the subject, there is one thing I really want to point out - as per the instructions of the Plasterboard adhesive, there is no need to PVA the masonry before you attach plasterboard, just clean down the masonry. You really do need to make sure it's cleaned down well, otherwise the adhesive will be attaching itself to dust and may separate from the wall in time. If sanding plaster or cutting plasterboard, be sure to wear goggles and a dust mask and try to work in a well-ventilated space Place a piece of self-adhesive plasterboard repair mesh tape over the hole, ensuring that all four edges are covered. If the home is too large for a single piece to cover all the sides, use multiple pieces with as little overlap as possible.Once the patch is dry and firmly in position, gently remove the screw. Use patching plaster, all purpose filler or multi-finish plaster — mix up enough to cover the patch and gently press into the hole and spread with a putty knife that is larger than the hole to help get a smooth finish. If you can get yourself a scraper with a metal plate on the end of a handle, like the one above, this'll help as you can tap the end with a hammer and use it like a bolster. This was a time-consuming method of building walls and ceilings, as individual laths (thin strips of wood) had to be nailed to the joists and then covered with layers of plaster. The plaster was squeezed between the laths so that 'nibs' formed - ridges of plaster that squeezed through the laths and set hard, holding the ceiling plaster in place. The room above would traditionally have had floorboards. Plasterboard With the batten positioned screw it in place through the front of the plasterboard making sure the screw heads go below the skim of plaster on the board. Do this with both battens and then cut a square of plasterboard to fit in the hole. This can be screwed to the battens with drywall screws and the square plastered together with the 4 screw holes for the battens. Option 2 - Fill most of the hole with plasterboard, then the gaps with an undercoat plaster, then skim over